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 Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot

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PostSubject: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:42 am



Post your creativity shots w/ photo manipulation and non retouch show your gear gadgets thanks...

Post a tips for photography...

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Last edited by rmcastro21 on Tue Dec 14, 2010 4:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Tue Nov 23, 2010 2:51 pm

nice one sir RM... post na kayo mga kaibon...
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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Tue Nov 23, 2010 3:02 pm

Fall Photography Tips

Fall is a great time to experiment with your camera and capture some beautiful colors. From gorgeous landscapes to intimate close-up shots of leaves, here are some photography tips and ideas on how to photograph fall foliage:

Composition: This term is used when talking about how objects are positioned in a photo. How you compose a shot is telling a story of what you want to focus on. In the photo below, the focus is on the red leaf compared to the neutral colors of the rocks in the background. Try off-centering objects in your photo to show what you want to focus on.


Perspective: This is similar to composition but is more about the photographer's position in relation to the shot. Are you standing above a leaf looking down on a leaf? Or do you want to catch a sunset behind a tree? Where you are in relation to the object affects the perspective of the photo. In the photo below the photographer got to eye-level with the leaf to get a level view.


Macro: Macro photography is a style of shooting images super close-up where you see lots of texture and detail. Check out our previous tutorial on how to turn on the macro feature on your camera. Most all cameras have this feature and it's a great setting to experiment and play around with. Try turning on your macro setting and get great leaf and pumpkin textures.



Color Adjustment: After you have uploaded your great fall shots to Photobucket, try enhancing them with simple and easy color adjustments. Select the photo you want to edit and on the "Basic
tab, click "Adjust." Slide the modules to adjust the coloring and saturation you like best.

Before:


After:


Color Splash: Apply the fun and eye-catching color splash effect to your fall photos and get a unique look! Click here for directions on how to make a color splash photo.

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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Wed Nov 24, 2010 6:41 am

nice

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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Thu Nov 25, 2010 1:21 pm

Galing! nice on sir raffy!
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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:07 am

Top 10 Tips for Great Pictures

Do you wish you were a better photographer? All it takes is a little know-how and experience. Keep reading for some important picture-taking tips. Then grab your camera and start shooting your way to great pictures.



1. Look your subject in the eye
2. Use a plain background
3. Use flash outdoors
4. Move in close
5. Move it from the middle
6. Lock the focus
7. Know your flash's range
8. Watch the light
9. Take some vertical pictures
10. Be a picture director

1. Look your subject in the eye

Too high
Better

Direct eye contact can be as engaging in a picture as it is in real life. When taking a picture of someone, hold the camera at the person's eye level to unleash the power of those magnetic gazes and mesmerizing smiles. For children, that means stooping to their level. And your subject need not always stare at the camera. All by itself that eye level angle will create a personal and inviting feeling that pulls you into the picture.


2. Use a plain background

Distracting background
Better

A plain background shows off the subject you are photographing. When you look through the camera viewfinder, force yourself to study the area surrounding your subject. Make sure no poles grow from the head of your favorite niece and that no cars seem to dangle from her ears.


3. Use flash outdoors

Subject is dark
After

Bright sun can create unattractive deep facial shadows. Eliminate the shadows by using your flash to lighten the face. When taking people pictures on sunny days, turn your flash on. You may have a choice of fill-flash mode or full-flash mode. If the person is within five feet, use the fill-flash mode; beyond five feet, the full-power mode may be required. With a digital camera, use the picture display panel to review the results.
On cloudy days, use the camera's fill-flash mode if it has one. The flash will brighten up people's faces and make them stand out. Also take a picture without the flash, because the soft light of overcast days sometimes gives quite pleasing results by itself.



4. Move in close

Good
Better

If your subject is smaller than a car, take a step or two closer before taking the picture and zoom in on your subject. Your goal is to fill the picture area with the subject you are photographing. Up close you can reveal telling details, like a sprinkle of freckles or an arched eyebrow.
But don't get too close or your pictures will be blurry. The closest focusing distance for most cameras is about three feet, or about one step away from your camera. If you get closer than the closest focusing distance of your camera (see your manual to be sure), your pictures will be blurry.



5. Move it from the middle

Boring
Better

Center-stage is a great place for a performer to be. However, the middle of your picture is not the best place for your subject. Bring your picture to life by simply moving your subject away from the middle of your picture. Start by playing tick-tack-toe with subject position. Imagine a tick-tack-toe grid in your viewfinder. Now place your important subject at one of the intersections of lines.
You'll need to lock the focus if you have an auto-focus camera because most of them focus on whatever is in the center of the viewfinder.


6. Lock the focus

Subject not in focus
Better

If your subject is not in the center of the picture, you need to lock the focus to create a sharp picture. Most auto-focus cameras focus on whatever is in the center of the picture. But to improve pictures, you will often want to move the subject away from the center of the picture. If you don't want a blurred picture, you'll need to first lock the focus with the subject in the middle and then recompose the picture so the subject is away from the middle.
Usually you can lock the focus in three steps. First, center the subject and press and hold the shutter button halfway down. Second, reposition your camera (while still holding the shutter button) so the subject is away from the center. And third, finish by pressing the shutter button all the way down to take the picture.


7. Know your flash's range

Without flash
With flash

The number one flash mistake is taking pictures beyond the flash's range. Why is this a mistake? Because pictures taken beyond the maximum flash range will be too dark. For many cameras, the maximum flash range is less than fifteen feet—about five steps away.
What is your camera's flash range? Look it up in your camera manual. Can't find it? Then don't take a chance. Position yourself so subjects are no farther than ten feet away. Film users can extend the flash range by using Kodak Max versatility or versatility plus film.



8. Watch the light

Good
Also good

Next to the subject, the most important part of every picture is the light. It affects the appearance of everything you photograph. On a great-grandmother, bright sunlight from the side can enhance wrinkles. But the soft light of a cloudy day can subdue those same wrinkles.
Don't like the light on your subject? Then move yourself or your subject. For landscapes, try to take pictures early or late in the day when the light is orangish and rakes across the land.



9. Take some vertical pictures

Good
Better

Is your camera vertically challenged? It is if you never turn it sideways to take a vertical picture. All sorts of things look better in a vertical picture. From a lighthouse near a cliff to the Eiffel Tower to your four-year-old niece jumping in a puddle. So next time out, make a conscious effort to turn your camera sideways and take some vertical pictures.



10. Be a picture director

Boring
Better

Take control of your picture-taking and watch your pictures dramatically improve. Become a picture director, not just a passive picture-taker. A picture director takes charge. A picture director picks the location: "Everybody go outside to the backyard." A picture director adds props: "Girls, put on your pink sunglasses." A picture director arranges people: "Now move in close, and lean toward the camera."
Most pictures won't be that involved, but you get the idea: Take charge of your pictures and win your own best picture awards.




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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Wed Dec 08, 2010 10:14 am

Sir raffy,

Good day. More inputs po, im on photogs din ngayon. newbei kaya need ng mga lectures. Tuts nga po ng CS4 meron ka ga po? Thanks. Smile
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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:51 pm

Tips For Action Sports Photography Techniques

Photographing sports means taking shots of moving objects. And when shooting the moving objects you can try to follow the object, synchronously moving your camera after it. Such method allows you to concentrate attention on the object movement.



There are two techniques of shooting moving objects:
to get a picture with the blurred background being in motion, while the object of shooting remains still and clear.
to show movement, making a dynamic object look blurred, but such an artistic technique is rarely used.
So, we will write about the first technique. In order to receive such a picture during shooting, you need to know the basics of composition and understand an interaction of shutter speed and diaphragm. This article will touch upon the principles of taking pictures of cars in motion. Basically, the same method applies to people shooting, but in a much easier way.

1. Shutter speed

Shutter speed is actually everything you need during the moving object shooting. If you shoot in the TV mode, you can always be sure in the effect of background blurring. The right shutter speed is selected depending on the speed of object movement. Besides, it always depends on how much of blur you want to have in the background. The average value of shutter speed should be 1/30. For cars it's faster - 1/60 or even 1/125. For walking people it's about 1/25 or 1/15.

2. Diaphragm

As you know, diaphragm is directly connected with shutter speed. In this case we work with
relatively long shutter speeds, which leads to a big diaphragm. This is not a problem, anyway, because a big amount of DOF will help us keep many details in the shot, and prevent in some way from the autofocus failures.
Using the AV mode you risk to get a variety of shutter speed values from 1/15 up to 1/60 (for example, if a large dark or white truck passes in the background).



3. A Tripod

If you shoot any movement, a tripod (or monopod) will help you to get rid of vertical motion blur, ensuring camera rotation only in vertical surface.

4. Auto focus

When shooting in the moving object, the best results can be achieved with the help of predictive auto focusing. Canon names it AI Servo mode, Nikon — Continuous servo AF mode. As you may know, camera focuses on the central focusing zone in the best possible way. That is why, it is better to use predictive focus tracking while people shooting, than car shooting. It is easier to keep the focus on a face, than on the fast moving single-colored object, that makes the focusing system's work quite complicated, but possible.



It is quite handy to use manual focus during car shooting. It helps to eliminate auto focusing failures, but it demands some experience from a photographer. In order to use it, set the right sharpness on the place, where the car will be passing by, and when it is in the exact position - press the release button.

5. Serial shooting

Serial shooting is when you keep the release button and the camera takes shots one by one. Sometimes you may find it really helpful. But why only sometimes? For example, when you see a car flying by, a bit of a second may be enough to catch the right image, but in the other moment - you just won't fit into the shot framing.
But if you shoot with manual focus or using a predictive focus, serial shooting really helps to take the best shot.



6. Stabilizers

Frankly, using a stabilizer won't help you a lot, but if you have it - it won't be unnecessary, for sure. Movement of the camera on a tripod is not ideally smooth, and is usually accompanied by minor jerks. So if you don't shoot with a tripod or a stabilizer - most probably you'll receive vertical vibrations, while a stabilizer will bring down those effects and make your shot more smooth.

7. Contrast

Try to highlight the moving object in the shot not only due to movement, but also with the help of the light or color contrast.

Choose such a place of shooting, so that the background behind a car would be white, or even illuminated by sun. If you set your focusing point for the central part of the image, try to take pictures of the dark cars only. Your camera shall measure the light against the dark object, while the background shall be overexposed. In the end you will receive a clear shot with the car in the white background, leaving an impression of movement. Have a look at the next example.



The picture of that car was taken from the mid-distance at the focal length of 70mm, shutter speed 1/30. As you see, the DOF is not too high, and the car looks sharp being close to the center of the shot, while you can see the blurring effect close to the edges. At the shutter speed 1/30 you won't receive a large DOF value, also shooting with the high focal length influence it.

8. Have more practice

And again we remind you, that you will have lots of unsuccessful shots, but your final result shall depend on your experience, rather than on some tools such as a tripod or a stabilizer, for example. The most important thing is to learn the feeling of motion in the image, and with a regular practice you'll be able to create really nice pictures and share them in our photoforum!

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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Thu Dec 30, 2010 5:40 pm

ok na ok sir RM nakakuha ako ng mga tips regarding to get a good shot more power to pinoy kaibon...God Bless po...
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PostSubject: Bird Photography   Sat Jan 15, 2011 7:19 pm

Here are some tips you might be interested to know on how to take photos of your favorite birds:
1. I prefer to use a cage for photography. A double cage is good enough. Use the round hole for the nest box at the side for taking your photos. At the opposite side, hang your favorite background and use one of your perches for the birds.
2. I usually take photos when the sun is at an angle especially in the afternoon (3-4 pm) because the light is not harsh and the afternoon light really complements the subject's color. This is also true for portraits of people. I let the light (not direct sunlight) come from one side so that the lighting is more dramatic. The light enhances the areas of light and shadows - not too much light as to over-expose your photo but not too little light that your photo becomes too dark. A good place is near a window.
3. Using a light from the top of the cage or lightbox above the bird would induce the bird to look up which is not a very good position as the neck is stretched out. If you use a lightbox, make sure that your side has a diffuser through which your light (say a light bulb, flourescent lamp or flash) passes through. You may use a reflector on the other side if you find too much shadow in your photo.
4. I find that the back part of the bird has the most visual appeal because that's where most of the design can be found - pieds, edged or marbled, etc. - while the front is almost the same for all birds except maybe the color. So the perch is positioned in such a way that the bird practically faces away from you. I wait for the bird to turn its head. When it does, it slightly moves its body towards you so that the body is now more or less at an angle toward you. This would be easy for mature birds but for very young birds, it's difficult because they cannot sit still.
5. If you know how to use Photoshop, you can use it for cropping to remove unwanted parts or to blow-up the image, adjust exposure, etc. I don't normally use color saturation - enhance the different colors such as making them very bright (body color) or very dark (personata's black mask). I prefer to keep the color the way I would normally see them in sufficient light.

Here are some samples:



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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:13 am

thanks sir junmark welcome po sa ating munting pugad ang pinoy kaibon...

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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:30 pm

way to go... :-) galing naman po.. :-)
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PostSubject: Re: Pinoy Kaibon Maniniyot   Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:39 am

sir warly post kanaman ng makaka tulong sa atin hehehe

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